5 Wonderful Things I've Eaten Around NYC Lately
Banchan, kebabs, corn dogs, and more
You won’t be surprised to learn that everything I eat doesn’t make it into a review, round-up, or trend piece. In fact, many of the best things occur in random meals in places I dashed into on a whim. Here are best things I’ve eaten since the last edition of this column.
Banchan at Sunn’s
Sunn’s, which presents homestyle Korean dishes in an intimate and relaxed atmosphere, has become the darling of Dimes Square — and the area’s toughest reservation. It began as a pop-up with the intent of spotlighting banchan. Note that, while Korean restaurants in town served eight or nine free banchan a decade ago, most have gradually reduced that number to only one or two. On a recent evening, Sunn’s array of banchan for a table of four ($35) ran to 10. Here are a few we enjoyed: sweet and hot shredded burdock, cloud ears laved in miso, cabbage kimchi, mayo potato salad with salmon roe, and cold sliced pork shoulder — all utterly delectable. 139 Division Street, Lower East Side
Aleppo kebab platter at Al-Kumah
Aleppo kebabs are made with ground lamb laced with parsley, onions, and Aleppo peppers grown in Syria, and named after one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. At Al-Kumah the kebabs are formed around metal skewers and cooked over charcoal, giving them a smoky flavor that complements the other seasonings. In the Aleppo kebab platter ($15.99) they’re plopped on a flatbread to absorb the extra grease and served with yellow rice, a grilled onion, and additional flatbreads rubbed with olive oil and harissa. The effect is a symphony of Middle Eastern flavors, with the famous chiles leading the caravan. 970 Main Street, Paterson, NJ
Papanasi at Danubius
Papanasi are Romanian doughnuts served for dessert at Danubius, a Sunnyside restaurant on a side street named after the Roman word for the Danube River. Unlike other Easter Europeans, Romanians trace their ancestry to the Romans, and the menu shows their influence. These fried dumplings (two for $14) are made fluffy with cottage cheese, and smothered in sour cream and sour cherry jam. They constitute the odd example of improving doughnuts with sauces, and maybe it should be done more often. 47-57 41st Street, Sunnyside
Banh xeo at Pasteur Grill and Noodles
These crunchy Vietnamese crepes are made with coconut milk. Inside is a rich combination of shrimp, pork, and bean sprouts that add further crunch. At this restaurant behind the jail known as the Tombs, which was founded in 1987 and hence the oldest Vietnamese in the city, the recipes themselves have an antique quality that represents the time when Vietnamese cuisine began to emerge in the city. This dish ($14) has a pleasing hint of curry powder that tints the juices yellow, a touch I haven’t tasted in other versions. 85 Baxter Street, Chinatown
Corn dogs at Cowgirl
At Cowgirl, the corn dogs ($6) are battered and fried to order and come out golden brown, the crust slightly sweet, like cornbread. And the frank inside is top quality with a natural skin. There’s no better corn dog in the country, except maybe at the Texas State Fair. 519 Hudson Street, West Village
If I ate like you I would weigh 400 pounds. You
Must have the metabolism of a 15 year old!!