A New Destination for Swedish Meatballs —And They're Better than IKEA's

A Dumbo newcomer comes on the tail end of a checkered history of Scandinavian restaurants in New York

The meatballs at Hildur.

Scandinavian restaurants serving the food of Denmark, Sweden, and Norway have generally had a tough go of it in New York. Even in the current era, when Copenhagen’s Noma has been considered one of the world’s top establishments, its influence has been limited to upmarket eateries like Ilis (though it should be mentioned that Aquavit has been successful for nearly 40 years).