José Andrés Swaps Tapas for Tacos in a Familiar Room

What to order at Oyamel in the former Spanish Diner space

Oyamel’s lamb shank barbacoa might be mistaken for paella.

A few weeks ago, I wrote about El Parador, the oldest Mexican restaurant in town. It opened in 1959, in an era when Mexican restaurants displayed Spanish influences. Well, now the reverse process has occurred at Oyamel (“butterfly”), with a Mexican menu that incorporates Spanish flourishes.