The Best Duck in Chinatown

Three for the weekend, May 23

The full duck presentation at Peking Duck House.

Everyone who visits Chinatown is regaled by the beautiful bronzed ducks hanging in the windows in casual and fancier establishments, often over rice with a sauce of drippings and soy. But look closely, and you’ll see the ducks are not always the same. Some have skins that gleam crisply, others are a paler or darker shade of brown, and still others appear more flattened. Here is a primer on the three kinds of ducks found in Chinatown and where to get them.

The chef carves the bird tableside at Peking Duck House.

Peking duck

With its crisp, burnished skin, soft flesh, and rich flavor, Peking duck follows a recipe that can be traced to the 18th-century Qing Dynasty. Traditionally, as it’s done at Peking Duck House ($79 per duck), the bird is ostentatiously carved tableside and served with pancakes, hoisin sauce, shredded leeks, and a cucumber julienne. The process to create this duck takes days and involves drying the skin, separating the skin from the flesh, and several steps of roasting and cooling.