Guatemalan pork and beans
Sadly, the most upscale Guatemalan restaurant the city closed not long ago. Park Slope’s Bistro Quetzalito seemed like a thoroughbred horse that could trot but couldn’t quite gallop; it also tended to devalue its own Guatemalan food in favor of other Latin cuisines. It was very good anyway.
Luckily, its progenitors were the half dozen bodega-cafes of nearby Brooklyn neighborhoods. Just downhill from Sunset Park’s sloping park, El Buen Chapin Deli Corp. appeared seven years ago at 3915 Fifth Avenue on the site of a former flower shop. The ranked Guatemalan and Mexican groceries are still there, but in addition, a few tables are pushed out front and there’s a pristine steam table in the rear, its hot dishes carefully covered to forestall desiccation.
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